Street Trends of the Past and Present

Street Trend influence 1
This street trend I have only seen in Brooklyn, Bronx and Harlem of New York. Many of the young teens men , wear this style. Styled with denim trousers, sagging, the shoe laces are tied into the trouser bottom front, and the back stays fitted to the shoe. I have ask, about this style and the feed back was keeping the trousers neat and clean “Not stepping on the back of the jeans”.



Street trend influence 2
The new street trend, is the custom sneaker designs, made with great detail. Created with fabric pant the artist creators to the customers imagination wants. The wild imagination comes from movies, cartoons, or everyday life. The cost of this custom hand made designers are from $150.00 to $500.00 .



Zoot Suits- late 1930-1940
After WWII Zoots Suits were popular in New York, Harlem. They became were worn by young gangs of African American, Mexican Americans and Italian Americans, particular in Los Angeles. The zoot suite was pant was high waisted, wide legged and tight cuffed at the bottom of the trousers. The coats were long mid thigh, with wide lapels and padded wide shoulders, often worn with a wide felt hats.

Stacy Adams has his own spin on the Zoot Suits, in 2008 his spring line of tailor looks, light pastel colors and straight lines set the new beginning of the zoot suit.

ZOOT SUITE





Teddy Boys mid 1950's
This Teddy boys tarted in 1950 in London when young men wore clothing inspired by Edwardian Period. King Edward VII appreciated and surround him self with woman of beauty therefore because of him he made it a hobbit to dress and party with style. Post war years income increased, and the young teens wore tailor made, shirt s known as “Mr. B” which was a high neck collar, white shirt with draped long knee length jacket, double breasted and made of wool. And narrow lapels, satin and many of pockets.

John Galliano spring 2009, captures the true style of the Teddy boys in his own way. The line represents the street trends in all its elements.

TEDDY BOYS






Mod late 1950s
First originated in London and spread to the U.S. This look went from street wear to main stream in a matter of moths. The term “mod” was describes fans of modern jazz music and opposed to traditional jazz. The teens and young adults used their disposable income to purchase the mod style clothing in London's first boutique, targeted to the youth. Mods were know as critical and self conscious, and known to use symbols as the Union flag for dress attrie. They wore,

As roland Mouret re-introduceds the Mod style in spring 2004, I have notice that the mod style has always been a street trend, which is usally seen in R&B and hip hop music videos. And Roland Mouret captures it in a soft quiet way.

Mod






Beatniks 1950's
The beatniks were a sociocultural movement of 1950's and 1960'sin England. A movement that lived a materialistic lifestyle of poetry leading into jazz. The name derived from New York, an author by the name of Jack Kerouac coined the name “Beat Generation” in 1948. Beatniks dressed in all black or oversize chunky long, sweaters along with huge owl collars, worn over slim or cigarette pants. The females often worn fitted pencil skirts or carpi pants with there hair pined up in a bun or a bob.

The year of the Beatniks is in season once again as BCBG's fall line hit the runway in 2006. The style of the chunky cow neck sweaters are here to stay.

Beatniks






Hippies 1960's to 1970's
The first group of Hippies were emerged in Europe 1896-1908. The word hippie is from the word “hipster” people who create their own communities as a sexual revolution and used various drugs, claiming to explore. The Hippies of mid 1960 and late 1970's were a movement that spiritually reached there audience though music festivals and contemporary sexual mores. Their style of clothing played a big part as well. Men wore: long hair, tie head bands, leather vests, and wide leg pants and boots; women wore micro minis, bell bottom jeans, halter tops, wide belts and leather sandals.

The style of the Hippies never went away, as we see here in Y & Kei spring 2008 collection. But this time with more bright and vibrant colors, tied in to a beach look as well.

HIPPIES





Disco late 1960's and early 1970's
From the late 1960's and early 1970's Disco was introduced to us from New York and Philly music and sound. Originated from the African American and Hispanic communities in the disco clubs. The music also came with the Disco dancing that became serious on the dance floor. The disco clothing became a big part of soon after, dressing to impress as they show off the lastes moves. The look started with shiny colors, spandes tops, hot pants, jump suits, leopard skin, and Lycra stretch pants known as disco pants.

Yohji Yamanmoto has studied that disco style an soften the suit fabric, in their spring 2008 collection. Noticing that they have formed that same suit style of 1970's and created a baggy look. Gearing toward the urban city nights.

Diso





Punk mid 1970's
An aggressive movement started in London mid 1970's called Punk. A range of 200 young people self proclaimed, “The anti-fashion urban youth street culture”, aligned with the music movement “PUNK ROCK”. This movement encompasses styles of fashion, dance, ideology, visual and literature. The lifestyle of unemployed and low income teens, designed to attract attention: animal print bum flaps, frayed edges of shirts, trousers, chains or safety pins held bits of fabric together. Spiked hairstyles and hair cuts and lets not forget body piercing were done in unusual parts of the body, such as nose, cheeks, lips, and eyebrows.

Luella for PUNK collection in spring 2009, has added some what of the Gothic look. Within this punk collection is a military style mix. As the zippers, chanes, patch like fabric and hairstyles play out the punk style trend. Luella altered looks, styles and fads from all over to create a new punk trend.

PUNK





Hip Hop late 1970's
Thirty-one years ago Hip-Hop's arrival in the streets of New York City in late 1970's. The correct term “Hip Hop” came from the African-American music culture called Bebop. When Hip Hop emerged so did the music, based around rhythmic beasts, rhymes and sounds by the Disc Jockeys. Inner city teenagers, found there new way to express themselves by dancing, and wild styles of dress: big tees shirts, bright colors, thick shoe laces, kangols hats, Nike and Adidas sweat suits. In 1983 Hip Hop became a culture when songs such as “Planet Rock” by Afrika Bambaataa and the Soulsonic Force.

Sean Johns fall coll for 2009 included more denim, long tee shirts and outerwear. As for the women of hip hop, they have been represented as sexy simples baring it all. Hop hip and non hip hop designers pull ideas from urban street trends, to make it interesting.

Hip Hop

Historical Styles from past to present

Alexander McQueen- Rococo Period 1725-1775

The18th Century of was reaction against the Baroque style, England and France. Changes were beginning to affect styles of dress. High fashion and riches of dress was the way of the wealthy ruling class. Fabrics and there quality ornamentation varied according to the wealth. From the Lace-edged cravat, Gold-buttoned and embroidered velvet coat to the leather shoes with jeweled silver buckles, dress was luxurious and extravagant. Women dressed appeared rich and radiant, as men dress elegantly. From the Lace-edged cravat, Gold-buttoned and embroidered velvet coat to the Leather shoes with jeweled silver buckles.




John Galliano- Gothic Period 1200-1350

In the 19th century the individual domain of the Kings were the Gothic cathedrals, built in France. The Germans lost their power to the emperors and the pops. In the ending France became the leading state of Europe. The Word Gothic is with out reference to any of our own period or style. Woman wore there hair loose and there necks were exposed, only coved there hair. Dress colors were soft and intense colors of green, blue, red and gold .




Dolce & Gabbana- Romantic 1820-1910

Napoleonic war was won and there was new era arising. Dominate was the French fashion at this time and dresses were made to fit the bodice waistlines, and leg of lamb sleeve or gigot. Some dresses were made with the bodice waistline with V-pointed form. Some dresses were cut across the fabric which made a long sleeve pattern and rounded out at the top to make the size greater or smaller.




Elie Saab- Baroque 1600-1750

The year of elegance, dresses were popular in the early part of the Baroque period. The style and trend was the “Cavalier. Men and woman's clothing paralleled, but woman's clothing started to change. Women sleeves were draped and full by 1630, the elbow was revealing and the lower for the first time. Fabric were replaced with natural silks and trimmings were close into buttonholes or laces.



Roberto Capucci – Abstract Art mid 1920's

Abstract Art is a America movement yet it was a visual language used in the terms of site. In the 20th century costume were more complex then any other preceding year. Colors created a degree of independence or feeling toward the shape or size an object (garment). Womans length in skirts were now layered and unyielding corset cages. At this time the woman brought about freedom from the ground-length skirts this reflected new opening for women to choose there careers.



Anna Sui-Art Deco 1925-1939

When the Universal Exposition hit in 1900, French artists formed an collective group know as the “La Society des artister decoraterus” all so know as the “ society of the decorator artist”. At this time the clothing became more complex and the liberation of the women's movement came improvements in technology leading to leisure. Women dressed with costumer jewelery, printed chiffon dresses, silk stockings, suede shoes and variety of styles hats, all influence by war styles.

History of the High Heel

The Heel: the back part of a shoe or boot that touches the ground and provides elevation.


The Chopines Heel 200 B.C.

High heels have been around for a long time, they have been serving similar purposed for men and woman since 4000 B.C.  In the ancient Greece and Rome, platform sandal called “Kothomi”, later know as "buskinsin" to the Renaissance.

During the High Renaissance of the sixteenth century, fashionable, wealthy women in Venice, Italy, eagerly climbed into Chopines (sha-PEENS), shoes.  Tall wooden or cork platform soles, some consider the first clothing fad. Created in Turkey the Chopines stood seven to eight or even 30 inches high.  Women used canes to help them walk about, this was a symbol of status revealing wealth and social standing for women.
 
Chopines ranged from six to twenty-four inches in height. The tops of chopines were rarely seen; the shoes were more valued for their height and for the dainty stride they required of wearers.  Feet were secured to the pedestals with straps of leather or uppers made of silk or other fabric.
Women who wore chopines needed the support of their husbands or maids to hobble the streets and royal courts of Venice. By the late sixteenth and early seventeenth century, French Spanish, and Swiss women were also teetering fashionably on chopines.  Worn by actors on Greek stages in early history may have been one of the inspirations for chopines. 







High “Louis” Heel 1660

By the time 1500 heels were made in two pieces a flexible upper attached to a heavier stiffer sole,  the heel was now a actual part of the shoe other than the attachable overshoe.  Now popular by and associated with privilege.  In 1660 French shoemaker Nicholas Lestage, so artful at his trade that some accuse him of black magic, becoming a shoemaker to Louis XIV.  

During the 17th century, King Louis XIV of France, stood 5 feet 3 inches tall,  had shoes made to increase his height. His court were allowed to wear red coloured heels at Versailles epitomized a period renowned for exorbitant trends in fashion. Red was a luxury and a precious commodity in 17th-century France; the dye was made from a small beetle, found only on the Mexican cactus. Few of his heels were decorated with miniature battle scenes, and as tall as five inches.  The trend caught on, and were fashionable for ladies. By the 1790 the heel disappeared with the revolution when Napoleon banished high heels to show equality.








The Stiletto Heels 1906

The word stiletto is derived from stylus, meaning a pin or stalk and named and inspired after a dagger. Stiletto heels are thin high heel and were surely around in the late 1800s in Italian. The design of the stiletto heel primitively came from the late Kristin S. Wagner did not become popular until the late 1950s. It was Andre Perugia who began designing shoes in 1906, was the first firmly documented designer of the stiletto heel.

Stiletto heels varied in length from 2.5 centimeters (1 inch) to 20 cm (8 inches)or more if a platform sole is used, and are sometimes defined as having a diameter at the ground of less than 1 cm (slightly less than half an inch). The stiletto came in styles such as the Italian-style stiletto heels early in 1960s and were no more than 5mm in diameter for much of their length.

After their demise in the mid-late 1960s, such slender heels were difficult to find until recently due to changes in the way heels were mass-produced. However, no other plastic heel with internal metal tube can hope to achieve the slender line or strength of a metal-stemmed stiletto, so it was only a matter of time before popular opinion and the demands of shoe designers brought back the manufacture of genuine stiletto heels.







Wedge Heels 1970

The Ancient Greek theater and their similar use by high-born prostitutes or courtesans in Venice in the 16th Century, platform shoes are thought to have been worn in Europe in the 18th century to avoid the muck of urban streets. a wedge heel runs under the foot, from the back of the shoe to the middle or front triangular, wedge shape, but not all wedges are high heels. In fact, wedge heels range from low to high, it's the shape and the length of the heel that classify it as a wedge. They have been worn in various cultures since ancient times for fashion or for added height. Often made with boots, or sandals with thick soles, often made of cork, plastic, rubber, or wood (wooden-soled platform shoes are technically also clogs.

Platform were popular in the United States, Europe and the UK in the 1930s, 1940s, and the early 1950s. When the biggest, and most prolonged, platform shoe fad in 1970s and 1980's, the U.S. history for platforms began in the early 1970. When the Vietnam War wound down in the early 1970’s, financial recession and energy shortages had emerged.







Designer Heel Today

Todays heels are made of raw materials from the manufacture of high heels are: animal hides, leather,wood, fabric, paper, plastic, and assorted cements and glues, depending on the component materials. The heel is intacted by tacks and screw nails used to bind fabric or leather to bind heels to the body part of the shoe. They are fed into a 20-ton (18-metric-ton) press that has been equipped with one, if metal dies are used to cut the pieces, such as leather (or other material). Materials are decorate, a heel will be made with faux pearls, tree branches, fabric and feathers. However, sometimes heels are made out of plastic and covered with materials to compliment the shoes uppers.

As of 1990 the designer have an image or style to transfer, a particular choice of materials, and the master shoemaker tells the designer what can be made or what production limitations are involved in the design. The millennium high fashions designers, adding art deco for inspiration behind the shoes heels. The Parda Flower-Heel “Mary Jane” is a mixter of multicolor upper. Brands became special importance among young people and many celebrities established their own lines of clothing or shoes.
In the early '00s heels saw a continuation of the minimalist looks that, designers began to adopt a more excessive, colorful, feminine, and 'anti-modern' look. The Art in general looked to for inspiration, more than past decades. Mid-late 2007 became exceedingly popular and fashion designers want to copy bygone styles in their clothing and shoes collections.

Historical Fashion Book

Draping


Toga
The toga came from the Etruscan 1200 BC relation to the Romans. The toga is made of wool and between fifty to twenty feet in length, which wraps around the top and lower part of the body. Roman men and Roman Citizen's wore the toga only during the second century. Century past and styles of the Romans changed. The tunic became the under shirt for the toga, which was worn oversize and bulky. The toga and the tunic was worn for the most part out doors and off indoors, by the time 46BC this was the court trend of the Roman Empire
This Etruscan toga was worn with a tunic shirt without sleeves. The tunic is a rectangular cloth with holes for the arms and head . Unsewn the tunic is held up with a braided rope in act of a belt. The fabric comes around the body, then drape the toge fabric over the left shoulder (toward the front) and let drape to the ankle. The fabric be hide you, come across your back and under your right arm to secure. Drape across over the left shoulder, tucked excess waist fabric into the waistband of the tunic.



Royal Cloaks:
The definition of cloak derived from the Latin which means cape in relation to cloak from the Ancient French. The cloak is a over coat worn to protect a person from rain, snow and winds. Sometime styled and cut from the neck to the ankle/mid-calf or from mid-thigh. In 1570 cloaks were long traditional worn and became high fashion in Spain with addition slits on the side for sleeve. The material or decorations hung by the fastened cords or draped over the shoulder.

The Victorians had variety of fabrics and styles such as tassels and braiding. Long and short styles were also in style in 1850, especially for the woman with child, who did not want there pregnancy public. Some cloaks were layered in three, from the neck line to mid-thigh. Some Royal styles cloaks were attached with hoods known as capucins.

Cloak, 1580-1600 V&A Museum no. 793-1901



Kimono:
The word Kimono in Japan means all type of clothing. The traditional Kimono is a full_length garment that men, woman and children, wear for age, seasons and sex. Full -length wide sleeve normally cut in one as a t-shaped, and falls to the ankle. The Japanese woman that is unmarried wears the rob wrapped around her body with long sleeves to the floor. Traditionally secured with a broad belt (obi) tied and left side over the right.

During the Edo Period the Japanese developed more unique dyeing techniques. Many patterns and colors were created and became popular. Today Kimono's are made from decorated fabrics, worn in one layer.

Edo Period (1601-1867 A.D.)


Tailoring

Corset:
In the eighth-century the corset was introduced and used for cinching the waist, to left the breasts to create a curvy shape for women of that era. The corset shapes the torso and over the belly to form a silhouette of beauty. Some women wore the corsets smaller then their own waist line to create a eloution of a small waistline and others made sure there was a gap in the back to breath normally.

Corset, 1891
Maison Léoty (French, late 19th century)
Silk
Gift of Miss Marion Hague, 1945 (C.I.45.27)


Suit Jacket:
Black tie dates from 1860 Henry Pool & Co..in London. The term tuxedo formed into American in 1896 by a man named of Griswold Lorillard wore his tuxedo to an exclusive country club in Tuxedo Park New York. The American term for tuxedo is to tuck or tur. The variations in the styling of the tuxedo, both in the jacket and trousers became popular by 1880. Worn to evening events and social functions. In London and North American referred to the new garment as a dinner jacket.

The tuxedo's can be made with 100% worsted wool, satin or any other fabric of choice. Above is the one button single breasted tuxedo jacket. has always been tailored with fine fabric. The jacket is created with a snotch lapel and sometimes finished with a silky satin alone with the button's on the jacket and flap pockets. The tuxedo trousers are lined to the knee made of poly blend for comfort. At the bottom the trouser are cuffed, for it to interruption just at the top of the shoe. The tuxedo is now know for its presents in style and class.




Wedding dress:
The union between two families is always exciting, with colors and symbolizes. Brides are expected to dress in a polite fashion, as men are predicted to were businesses attire. Tailored wedding dresses and suits, to fit the body type in the early fourteenth century was normal for the upper class. All brides have different shapes and sizes. Wedding dresses or gowns are tailored to fit the brides unique figure and frame.
In this picture this wedding gown was made of silk tulle and lace. On her head was a cap that fitted over the head. With veils that are pleated, with doubled tulle gathered into a large pouffe at the back the head. The cap was just above the eyebrows and the back fell to the length the floor.
The chemise styled dress was loose fitted, similar to the flapper-type dresses. Plain necklines were the style in this era. Puffed cap sleeveless were gathered with silk tulle and the hem hovered calf length and the waist line dropped with a fringe (outside boundary) as an overlay. Accessorized with white gloves made out of silk all tailored to the fitting of a braid.

Draping:

The Fashion Source

Joanne's Fashion Source Book

A Source book should give you inspiration, creativity and education. This helps explore all the different avenues in fashion, from tailoring to trends. Everyone has there own style or creative look they are comfortable with. All fashions trends and styles come from some where or era.

I've chosen this picture of Diana Ross in the classic movie “Mahogany” from 1976. The movie was about a fashion designer turned fashion model. Bob Mackie and Diana collaborated the fashion and design colors in the movie. Critics were not fond of the movie in 1970's, but I thought it was sexy and full of creative style. The colors in the film were bright, fun and vibe rent, as the red wine color in her costume. The gown was made out of a lyric blend fabric, displaying the extended fish tale toward the back. From her pose and her expression, this picture only says, “see me love me baby”.